Owner's Report & Modification Report

Please send me your guitar report!

Mr.OGIRA
A prototype of my original tremolo block
(sloppy work but the result is ....!!!!)

I've modified my tremolo block to see how my idea would work.
Sorry for the sloppy hand-work on this block, I've only spent a couple of hours.

*
I've put six slits on the block so that a string will not touch anything
form the ball-end to a saddle.




*
To make sure the ball-end won't move from arming action, I've put
screw holes from the bottom and mechanically "locked" the ball-ends.




*
Other parts:
  roller type saddles
  special bone nut
  locking type tuning machines

(i have 10 roller nuts but i've never seen one with acceptable quality.
so i've used a bone nut which has been soaked in oil for few years.
this is very nice!  i highly recommend it. it is available at the
meat-shop koshimizu.  yes, they sell meat and guitars in one shop)


The test result tuned out much greater than I've expected.
The tuning stays even after my heavy arming actions.
While Folydrose will completely changes the original guitar tone
and loses woody feels, I could not notice any tone difference
from this modification. Of course, unlike Floydrose,  I didn't have to
modify my Strat's body.

A friend of mine works for a precision metal shop so I'll ask him
to make much cleaner version next.


Ogira





Joe

Heavily reliced Esquire



This guitar began as a 2006 MIM Telecaster. I used a torch to burn most of the
stubborn poly finish off. The finish is Nitro from Reranch. The hardware was all
aged with muriatic acid. I originally had a 60's style bridge but I reliced it so
aggressively that it rusted all of the screws in place. After painting I used
random "tools" to make the dings and nicks in parts of the guitar that I though
looked natural. I wore the paint away with lacquer thinner around the upper edge
after spending much time holding it in the playing position to see where my arm
would actually fall. The pickguard was aged with some light sanding as was the
knob which was also sprayed with some aged yellow lacquer.
After aging through the paint I used a black stain to give the wood an older look.
It took very nicely in the little dents on the headstock. The neck is also completely
sealed so even where it is aged it is not raw wood. This makes it slightly less
believable but much more comfortable to play.
The pick up is a Fender Custom Shop Nocaster.



Drew Duncan

Warmoth Swamp Ash Tele & Custom Amplifier







I like this guitar a lot. The neck profile feels very good. It is between thin and thick.
It is thicker on top and thinner on bottom (asymmetrical), so it fits to the web of your hand,
between thumb and fingers.

I used an Earvana nut to allow for better intonation in the lower frets.

The pickguard is only one layer of matte black, to resemble bakelite. It has 7 screws.

The body is medium light swamp ash. I made a "belly cut" on the back, for comfort.
It is finished with about 4 or 5 thin coats of nitrocellulose lacquer.

First, the bare wood was tinted with vintage yellow dye. Next, I used Parks brand nitro sanding sealer
for wood floors (hard). The second coat was Jet brand furniture lacquer (soft). I left those 2 coats to
dry in my woodworking shop for 3 months. The temperature could get both hot and cold. The nitro layers
dry at different speeds. The soft layer tried to shrink faster than the sanding sealer, so it started to crack.
When it looked old enough, I sprayed on 2 more coats of reranch instrument lacquer (hard) to seal it
altogether. I wet sanded with 320, 400, 800 and 1200 grit sandpaper and did a light machine buffing.
Not too shiny.
It is difficult to see in the pictures, but the body has many thin cracks that look like broken glass. Also the
finish on the fretboard is worn through in several areas. It is "lightly reliced".







The bridge plate is an old Fender model, but the saddles are new. They are bent a little for better tuning.
I used mild acid to make the brass saddles and screws look old.




The Bill Lawrence pickups sound good. No one can guess that they are noise cancelling, because they
sound like old single coil pickups.

The neck pickup has no cover. It sounds much better than most Tele neck pickups. It has a little bit of
Strat tone and works well for jazz and blues.

The bridge pickup has more "clang" than "twang", like a Broadcaster. It can sound good clean, but it loves to
play loud through an AC30 or similar tube amp.

The middle pickup is only on in switch positions 2 and 4 for the Strat out-of-phase sounds. Position 3 (middle)
uses both the neck and bridge pickup, like a Tele. It is a "super switch" from Stewmac. It is wired with teflon
insulated, audiophile wire, CTS pots and a NOS capacitor.

I used this guitar in my booth at NAMM, to demonstrate amplifiers, so many people could try it. Everyone
seemed to like it. The best sounds with this guitar are: neck pickup clean (very sweet), neck + bridge pickups
together for that classic Tele high/low or hi fi sound or the bridge pickup through a slightly dirty tube amp,
which sounds like fire alarm bells and thunder.

I have made several custom guitars for testing amps, but this is the best one.

Over the years, I have made about 300 tube amplifiers. I specialize in old-style, vintage amps (1948 - 1970).
Many of my customers are producers, studio musicians or touring guitarists. I do not advertise, because I already
have a backlog of more than a year. I just can not work fast enough. I have included a picture that shows my amp
making process.


Thank you
Drew Druncan


Kabudokan
USACG T-Hollow




The carved top is wild maple - I spoke with Tommy of USACG about what I wanted, and he picked
out the flamey, quilty piece you see there. The back is one piece of mahogany.
The top was stained with a dark brownish-red-black, then sanded back. Then stained again, I think
with a more reddish color. (It's been a while.) Sanded back again - then I applied the final color,
which was the orangish red that was the final color.
I then applied a few coats of clear nitro, and then did the burst. The burst was done with the 3-
color burst set from reranch. The reddish color is most of it, with the very outer edge coming
from the brown-black that goes on the outside of the 3-color burst. Multiple layers of clear topped
it off.
The back was a combination of amber and the red from the 3-color burst. Also, you can see that I
taped a faux binding on the top before I sprayed the burst - it's not a clear, natural binding ala
PRS, but gives it almost a tortoise-shell appearance.
The water-based stain came from www.wdlockwood.com . I have used their stuff on both of my projects
though, and it's very quality stuff, and very reasonably priced as well.
The nitro lacquer products (clear and burst colors) all came from reranch, which is also great
stuff. I was a bit worried about doing the burst, but it came out great.

You can also see most if not all the pictures I took during the finishing process.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v519/KaBudokan/


Specifications:
Body - USACG T-Hollow
Neck - USACG US-4 2pc Brazilian Rosewood
Bridge - Hipshot Baby Grand
Tuners - Sperzel Sound Lock tuners
Nut - Bone nut
Pickup - WCR Darkburst and Crossroads
Weight - around 6.2 pounds.

Sound :
It's very versatile, really. It can do a fairly convincing Les Paul tone, though maybe a bit
warmer. It also does a great rockabilly tone when you flip to the bridge pickup. I tend to work
mostly on the neck pickup (always have), and it gives a full, clear tone with great sustain. When
pushing my amp hard (Top Hat Club Deluxe - a 20-watt, single-channel class A amp) I can get
controlled feedback on demand depending on how I turn the guitar and let notes ring, etc. It's a
beautiful thing!



(Q)
What is the neck wood?

(A)
Brazilian Rosewood. I bought the neck blank a few years before having it cut by Tommy. The neck
and the fingerboard are from the same piece of rosewood. Apparently this "stash" of rosewood had
sat in Europe since the late 60's. It was originally supposed to go to Martin Guitars. (That's what I
was told anyway!)

(Q)
Did you put those inlays by yourself?

(A)
USACG put the inlays in. I sent them a picture of the Godin inlays and asked them to do that. It
was a slight upcharge - they measured and drilled by hand, after estimating the string spacing, etc.





Kabudokan


Southern ILL

Army green Custom/Deluxe




Body is a Guitar Mill Pinecaster Custom-2 pieces and
its a lightweight.Total guitar is about 6.5
pounds....Neck is a Mighty Mite with a CBS large
headstock.Kluson staggered tuners.Pickups are GFS with
a Hot alnico LiverPool in the neck and a 62 Hot Alnico
in the Bridge.The bridge and saddles are Wilkison and
I can Top Load it or string it through the body. I
prefer to Top Load it. Plays really good and tone
controls are really active...Roll the tone off and
tone get thick.....This guitar turned out better than
excpected and I have plans for the next one
already....Love this style(Telecaster Custom/Deluxe)
and my next build will have different style of
pickups.....


Finish:

Miwax Water base stain(4-5 coats) with a wipe on Poly
finish(4-5 coats also). Very thin finish.Was really
going for a GI Joe look......

Sound:

I'm more of a Rockin' & Roll" guy....and this guitar
is very versitle. My heros' are Mike Ness(Social
Distortion) Brain Henneman(the Bottle Rockets) Angus
and Malcolm of couse-Johnny Cash and Luther
Perkins-Rich Robinson(Black Crowes).And this guitar
can cover all those great tones. I like it cause its
different..Not what would normally come from
Fender....and Billy next door doesn't have one.


Tyson

"General Lee" Tele 




This Guitar is my first build, finished in July 2007. I grew up in the '80s, and the Dukes was my favorite show....the first time 
I saw a Dixie flag pickguard, the wheels started turning....

I used a Warmoth body from Warmoth's showcase, it was already finished in what the company simply called "Bright Orange." 
The neck is a modified Allparts piece, finished by Eric at Revelator guitars (THANKS, E!).

All hardware is Fender except for the Electrosocket jack, and the pickguard came from Pickguards.com. The control plate 
has since been reversed to make it easier to access the amp knobs used for volume and tone. The decals were custom 
made for me by buildagenerallee.com, and are scaled down versions of the same decals that go on replica General Lee cars.

I was going for a '69 Telecaster theme, since the "real" General Lee was a '69 Charger. To do this, I used Fender "F" tuners 
and neckplate, and a bridge with notched steel saddles, just the way they came back then. The pickups are Fender Texas Specials....
I figured a hotrod like this deserved some hot pickups!







'65 Mustang - Barbie guitar

A friend of mine rescued a '65 Musicmaster neck and an early non contoured Mustang body from a parts box, 
and had a friend of his finished it in his autobody shop in pink of all colors....so it became a Barbie guitar :-)

All new CIJ reissue hardware, and Lace Sensor pickups....gold in the bridge position, blue in the neck. 
It hangs in my two year old daughter's room, waiting for her to learn to play it!




Chris Baker

'59 Slabboard replica


This is my '59 Slabboard replica. 








Specifications:
Body USACG
Alder 2pc center seam
Neck Musikraft
flame maple/slab board, med jumbo frets,
C Back, clay dots, and 9.5 fretboard radius
Tuners Kluson Single Line
Pickups Novak Vintage Wound

A calibrated set wound to vintage specifications with A5 magnets,
Formvar wire, and the middle pickup is RWRP.
Bridge Callaham trem block
Callaham base plate
Fender Pat.Pend saddles
Pickguard Fender Mintgreen Nitro Lacquered to age out nicely
Knobs, Covers, and Tips Vintage Clone parts
Finish Reranch
3 Burst System Nitro Lacquer
Overall guitar sound Killer



Katsumi     Hi cbaker.
Thank you for submitting the report! I'm interested in Curtis Novak's pickups.
Why you've chose his pickup?
cbaker Heard good things about them and I like his philosophy. 
Have since picked up a set of his "PAF" Humbuckers for my Les Paul.
Katsumi Was he easy to deal with?
cbaker He was very friendly and helpful!  He was very responsive to email correspondence.
Katsumi How long did you have to wait for the custom pickups?
cbaker Not long,  maybe 2 weeks?
Katsumi And most importantly, how is the sound?
cbaker They have a very full sweet tone.  They are very responsive to different pick attacks. 
The bridge has some nice twang and the neck is creamy.  I also have a set of
SD Antiquities, CS '54s, CS Fat 50's, and '57/'62 Vintage and the Novaks are
by far the sweetest of the bunch.  They  are not overwound or superhot, but very toneful!
Katsumi Thank you!




Katsumi

The Way of Relic - Vintage aged finish projects

 


 

 


 




The Way of Relic





Robin Nahum
Short Scale Neck with Split Block Inlays
Thinline partscaster


Review and Specs
-------------------
I am learning jazz. I also love the look and feel of Teles and have been exploring ways of 
bringing the two worlds together. For this guitar, my third Thinline partscaster, I have 
tried to capture some of the features of a Gibson archtop - the P90, the quilted blond top 
and maple back, the split block inlays, the multi-ply binding and the pearloid tuner keys, 
but contrasting them with the key Tele features - the shape, vintage bridge, single coil 
bridge pickup and control arrangement.

I went for the short scale neck simply because it makes it easier to play those stretchy 
jazz chords but I wanted to combine this with a fatter sounding single coil neck pickup. 
I also have a Les Paul Special HB and an ES345.

The pickups are Seymour Duncans - Vintage P90 and Jerry Donahue. They are connected 
using a four-way switch that gives the three standard options plus the neck pup plus 
the bridge pup at half-strength.

The bridge is a Fender from Angela Instruments. The compensated saddles are from StewMac.

The tuners are Gotoh mini-tuners with the Schaller pearloid keys (they do fit).

It is very comfortable to play and I am very happy with the sound. I was worried that with 
all the maple it might sound too bright but this has not proved to be the case.

- the body was made by Warmoth,
- the neck was made by USACG
- the split block inlays were done by Custom Inlay,
- the body finish was done by Frank Grubisa here in Sydney, and
- it was all put together by Colin Bloxsom also in Sydney.

Robin


Darrell

Vintage Bridge for American Tele's




Vintage bridge on AS Tele - the gDarrell modh

I came up with this idea a few years ago. But there was a missing link to the puzzle. To have a clean look, you need a vintage bridge with NO string through wholes. I didnft want to have 12 wholes in my vintage bridge. Fortunately, I found one on ebay. Once you find one, you can follow instruction below, and create your own Vintage Bridge for AS Tele.

Steps.
1) Remove strings and AS Tele bridge and remove the parts from the bridge. (Move them to one side keeping them in order. Reattach them when you are done)
2) Attach bridge pickup to the Vintage Bridge.
3) Place it on the Tele Body and mark mounting holes.
a. These mounting holes will be under the string through wholes
b. Make sure that upon marking the mounting holes that the pickup route is concealed on both sides of the vintage bridge.
c. Make sure the AS mounting wholes are concealed as well.
d. There is zero tolerance, so get it right! If you think there is a tolerance, you are doing it wrong.
4) Use a nail and a hammer and create pilot wholes for the drilling of the mounting screws.
5) Only mount TWO of the mounting screws. Double-check everything (3 a. b. and c.) before moving to step 6.
6) Remove the Vintage Bridge and run a piece of masking tape across the bottom of the vintage bridge where the stringthrough wholes will go.
7) Reattach the Vintage Bridge.
8) Flip the guitar over with the back on top.
9) Mark the string through wholes by using a marker of some type though the string through holes. I use a finishing nail dipped in paint.
10) Flip the guitar over to the front.
11) Remove the vintage bridge.
12) Clamp the AS Bridge to the Vintage Bridge (back side to backside). The string through marks that you painted on would be showing through the AS String through holes.
13) Drill ALL of the wholes before you take the clamps off. Donft bother doing one or two and then looking. You are better off doing them all at one time and getting them straight, than doing one or two, and looking and then trying to realign them and putting the clamps back on. If you ruin the bridge, well you can always get another one for a relatively low cost. But it is better than ruining your guitar.
14) Now you have the finished product. Just attach it and install the other two mounting wholes.

The benefits to this mod.
1) You will have a Vintage Bridge looks
2) You will have ferrous bridge dynamics and tone
3) You donft have to get rid of your AS style guitar to get those features.
4) The only mod to the guitar will be the mounting wholes
5) The mounting wholes can be covered and the AS bridge can be put back on.

Downside
1) You will have to drill new mounting holes into your guitar.
2) This will be the only Vintage Bridge for your guitar, unless you make another one or use the new bridge as a template for your next vintage bridge.



If you want me to create Vintage Bridge unit for AS tele, and donft want to go through the hasslecI will only do this if there is some kind of gdemandh to do it. Like more than 1. I will want a fee, and I will have disclaimers.

Darrell

Katsumi

Making an aged knob:

 Since the famous coffee soak or tobacco smoke method can fail
depending on a knob's coating material,
I tried to "relic" my strat knob using a tint spray and
lacquer coating.  
Here is a BEFORE-AND-AFTER picture.


(yes, the direction of the arrow is correct!)

I could get this result in less than 30 minutes.
Notice the surrounding "grip" on the knob remains sharp.
I didn't sand that part on purpose,
because I wanted to make this a player-friendly knob.


Steps:

(1) Sand the knob so that the color firmly sticks on the knob.
I sanded it until I did not see any shiny spots.


(2) Spray the tint color coat.
I used ReRanch's Fender Neck Amber.


(3) Add this trick here.
I smeared a little bit of pastel powder to get an extra dirty look.
I think this is one way of commonly known weathering techniques
in the plastic model world.


(4) Clear coat the knob with nitro clear lacquer.


(5) Then show the knob to your family and friends!
Nobody will understand what you are doing.


Katsumi

Katsumi
Read this before you try Kiwi Shoe Polish application 


I've personally tested the Kiwi Shoe Polish on my poly-finished neck
and found that Kiwi is just a temporary solution for tinting. 
Yes, it was very easy to apply and it made my whitish neck look like a 
vintage amber color. 
Shoe polish is almost like a wax based paint such as Minwax. 
Basically, wax based paints do not work well when you 
are constantly touching the surface.

It may work great for six months or even two 
years depending on how often you play the guitar.
But the paint will wipe-off especially when your hands are wet from 
sweating.
And nobody knows any side effects since Kiwi is
not designed to contact human body.

Another bad thing is, generally speaking, it is difficult to apply any top-coat over
a wax based paint. So, again, nobody knows if you can successfully build a 
protective clear coat over the Kiwi wax. 



PROS:
* easy to get a great result in 10 minutes
* if it wiped-off in a year, you can just reapply it. (just another 10 minutes job)

CONS:
* will wipe-off sooner or later 
* difficult to find a compatible top-coat
* nobody knows its side-effects (and you can't sue the shoe polish company if you get sick) 

Below is a part of MSDS Data Sheet of  the KIWI Shoe Polish
Health Hazard Data
===========================================================================
LD50-LC50 Mixture: NONE SPECIFIED BY MANUFACTURER. 
Route Of Entry - Inhalation: NO 
Route Of Entry - Skin: YES 
Route Of Entry - Ingestion: YES 
Health Haz Acute And Chronic: ACUTE: THIS PRODUCT MAY CAUSE MILD EYE
IRRITATION. DIRECT CONTACT WITH EYES MAY CAUSE STINGING, TEARING, OR
REDNESS. PROLONGED EXPOSURE MAY CAUSE EYE OR SKIN IRRITATION. INGESTION OF
EXCESSIVE QUANTITIES MAY CAUSE DIGESTIVE TRACT IRRITATION AND SIGNS OF
NERVOUS SYSTEM DEPRESSION SUCH AS DROWSINESS, (EFTS OF OVEREXP)
Carcinogenicity - NTP: YES 
Carcinogenicity - IARC: YES 
Carcinogenicity - OSHA: YES 
DYES HAVE BEEN FOUND TO INDUCE CANCER IN LABORATORY ANIMALS DURING LONG-
TERM FEEDING STUDIES OF DYE. THERE IS NO INFORMATION ON EFFECT TO HUMANS.
Med Cond Aggravated By Exp: NONE SPECIFIED BY MANUFACTURER.
Emergency/First Aid Proc: INHALATION: REMOVE TO FRESH AIR. CONTACT
PHYSICIAN IF BREATHING DIFFICULTIES EXIST. EYE: FLUSH WITH WATER FOR AT
LEAST 15 MINUTES. CONTACT PHYSICIAN IF IRRITATION PERSISTS. SKIN: WASH WITH
SOAP AND WATER. CONTACT PHYSICIAN IF IRRITATION PERSISTS. INGESTION: DO NOT
INDUCE VOMITING! CONSULT MEDICAL EXPERT.

here is the complete list


Katsumi


Tak Koichi
USACG project guitar

After reading this website (Japanese version), I decided to built a telecaster using the 
USA Custom Guitar parts. 



When I placed an order from Japan, I asked Tommy at USACG to 
make a body and a neck which produced a tone that was 
bright with long sustain, slightly tight, and heavy but not fat.


I know it's very difficult (or impossible) to describe any sound 
in words but they made a body and a neck which can produce the exact sound I wanted. 
It's really amazing since in some cases, Swamp Ash Tele turns to be dead-aired fat tone. 

After playing the guitar several times, I have reached the conclusion that 
this Tele has turned to be the best guitar out of all of the ones that I own.

As for the pickups, my original plan was to install Fralin's pickup. 
But Fralin pickups are hard to get and they are very expensive in Japan.
So I put Seymour Duncan's Quarter Pound since I had them already. 
I thought it might be a mis-match for this guitar but 
this high output-sensitive pickup could really produce the sound qualities
of the characteristics of this neck and body.
In Full volume, it is loud, clear, tight and heavy, but not fat. 
By turning the knob to the left, the sound turns to be sweet and mellow. 
The sound is great !!!

In addition, I found this guitar is very reliable. 
Especially, tuning stability is excellent. I tuned in a very cold room and then
played on very humid and hot stage in a live house. But I did not have to make tuning adjustments. 

The playability is also good. The neck profile is little bit fatter 
than I expected. But it is OK. No problem here.
Considering the excellence of the tone, fat neck might be better than thin neck to me.

The only problem is that this guitar has turned to be the only guitar I play. 
I think I have to modify my other guitars (Schecter,Fender G&L) to improve
their tone.


The decal on the head is printed on a KOKUYO Ink jet printer label sheet(film label), 
using word processpr S/W and Canon BJC-210J(Cheap and old Printer). 
The surface of the sheet is matte. The finish of the label is excellent. 
It seems to be a real professionally made brand guitar like ESP or something! 


Below are the detail specifications of this project guitar

***** USACG Body
-Style : T
-Wood : Swamp Ash One Piece ( Right Handed )
-Finish : ROXY's Transparent Butterscotch Blonde (06A in Finish Gallery)


***** USACG Neck
-Scale : 25-1/2
-Nut width: 1-5/8
-Thickness : .800
-Peg Head : US1 (Right Handed)
-Peg Hole : Kluson
-Wood : 1/4 Sawn Maple One Piece
-Back Contour : C Shape
-Truss Rod : Heel Adjust
-Fret : 22
-Fret Size : 6230
-Nut Slot : Flat Bottom
-Inlay Dots : Black Plastic
-Fingerboards : 7-1/4" to 9-1/2" compound radius
-Finish : Vintage Tint Stain

***** Pick Up : 
Seymour Duncan's Quarter Pound

***** Nut : 
Graphteck Carbon

Timothy Ard
TELEBASTERD


Here is the KISEKAE simulation of the TELEBASTERD
 



The Telebasterd is done!

Some differences from the virtual design are: Black headstock instead of blue. 
Controls were moved back a bit for playability.



The Official TELEBASTERD Construction site

Josh  
Aging Results - MIM poly maple neck
SHOE POLISH WORKS!


Over lunch I did my Tele neck (2000 model MIM, poly) with the brown shoe polish and it worked perfectly.

In fact, I didn't take a picture, but I have a 20-year-old Fender maple neck on another guitar and the 2000 model one tinted with brown shoe polish looks EXACTLY like the 20-year-old maple. I'm thrilled with the result.

FWIW, I also buffed the satin finish to higher-gloss with Turtle Wax clear coat polishing compound (done it a bunch on other guitars), to get more of the "vintage" look from my MIM Tele. Do this first. It just takes a few minutes, buff by hand, the result is just like a vintage high-gloss neck.


Stike  
Pabstocaster


OK. Here's they whole story. First off I collect Pabst stuff, don't why or how it started but I do. I found 4 rolls of NOS Pabst wallpaper on Ebay and bought it with no idea what to do with it. Then I saw a paisley Tele and the so called light bulb went off. The labels on the pickgaurd are adhered with doublestick tape from Stew Mac, that stuff if strong. If anyone is going to do a paisley Tele use this stuff. This stuff stays put wheras I've seen contact cement bubble up reacting with the clear. The labels on the pickgaurd are cleared with 3-4 coats of House of Kolor UFC-1. The body was a nightmare! The wallpaper is flocked meaning that the dark blue is a thick felt like material over the light blue paper so the dark is a few 32nds higher than the light. This resulted in MANY clear coats, definitley more than a sane person would apply. This was also HOK UFC-1. Urethanes can go a lot thicker than nitro but this project without a doubt tested those limits. I wouldn't even consider nitro or acrylic for a project like this, Hell I wouldn't even consider doing it again with anything LOL. The binding was painted. BTW it's an Alder Warmoth body w/ a walnut/ebony Warmoth neck and for all the clear it's surprisingly resonant acousticlly and it really cuts when plugged in. Honestlly I thought it was gonna be just a very labor intensive novelty guitar but I play it out all the time. My band covers Johny Russel's "Red Necks, White Socks, And Blue Ribbon Beer" so I guess I have to. Hope ya'll got a good laugh, I sure did. 




(Q1) Did you use doublestick tape to adhere the wallpaper
for the body ? Any tips?

I didn't use d/s tape for the body BUT if I were
doing this again I would. The Stewart Macdonald tape is REALLY strong after
you apply pressure to it and it doesn't seem to have any chemical
reactions(lifting) with the clear like the contact cement did. BTW I used 3M
Spray 77 but never again.


(Q2) How did you "hide" the edge of the wallpaper.

For hiding the wallpaper seam once it was glued I trimmed it with a
VERY sharp blade and cleared until I couldn't feel the seam. 
Since the wallpaper was flocked it took ALOT of clear. At this point
I took some 3M fine line tape( the blue stuff) and laid out the "binding". I
used House of Kolor striping urethane for this because it'd super
opaque(less coats means less clear) and it's compatable with urethane clear.


I'm actually doing a G&L ASAT for a friend right now and will be doing
a couple things differentlly this time. First is instead of actually using
the wallpaper I had it color copied so I can use less clear. Like I said
I'll be using SM tape instead of contact cement and instead of painting
binding this time I'm going to slighlty "'burst" the edged similar to
Fenders Paisley Tele.


Stike


Nick Fanis
VAN ZANDT TLV60

The TLV60 is a now discontinued VAN ZANDT high end custom tele copy.It has a bound one pc alder body a nitro top,poly undercoat two tone sb finish and KILLER VAN ZANDT true vintage pickups.The guitar is beautifully made with enormous attn to detail and authenticity if the vintage hardware.The neck is a nice medium c with vintage frets very straight and with a nice indian rosewood fretboard.I was very impressed with the quartersawn maple neck.The guitar is light and very resonant and has the woodiest sound of every tele I have ever played.It is now my main guitar.These VAN ZANDT copies are expensive but IMHO better than anything Fender is currently offering.

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/nickfani/lst?.dir=/Mail+Attachments&.view=t


-Tonefiend- 
Scott Lentz Tele review
by Tonefiend

Here is a report of my new Scott Lentz T-Custom. The guitar is the lightest, and most resonant I have ever played. The construction is flawless, and the finish, a 2 tone sunburst is absolutely beautiful. Scott has been making guitars in Southern California for 25 years now, and is at the top of his game. He is well known throughout the states and Europe, and is becoming known in Asia now for the first time. His guitars are works of art.

He built it to my specifications. I wanted a tele that sounded aggressive for rock and blues playing, but also sounded like a tele. He nailed it dead on. The pickups were hand wound to match the body weight, and really sound great. The bass notes are deep and crisp, with that tele twang, the highs are chimey and focused. This guitar sounds great all over the neck, and can do it all from lead to rhythm. This thing makes all my amps sound fantastic from the growl of an AC30, to the huge presence and power of my marshall. Played through a brown princeton it has the classic fender sound. Very chimey and sweet, but when pushed hard makes the amp bark. It is rich with harmonics and overtones. The guitar is very lively. I find myself playing it without an amp often because it is so loud.

The finish is ultra thin Nitrocellulose Laquer. He has been refinishing vintage guitars for 25 years and it shows by the quality of this guitar. The neck is a nicely aged amber yellow, and has a very smooth silky feel. The fretwork is great. It plays like butter. The body is a beautifully grained piece of Southern swamp ash. He is located in San Marcos California Here are some pic's enjoy them. 

-Tonefiend-

 
Scott Lentz

(760) 743-1598 
Lentzelectricguitar@netzero.net


scott-O-caster
Aging Results - '50s Classic Tele

First of all, my thanks to Jim Rumson for the idea and Markophonic for encouraging me to take
my white blond 50s Classic Tele to the tanning salon in an attempt at aging but not
relic-ing, it. The process had some surprising yet very positive results.

Method:
First, I used rubbing alcohol to remove any wax/polish/gunky buildup from the finish.
My local tanning salon sells time in 20-minute sessions. I bought one session the first night,
three sessions the second night, and two sessions the third for a total of 2
hours. I requested the
ghottesth tanning bed with the newest lights
(they had just been changed). I laid the Tele face down on its strings
balanced on a pack of cigarettes to allow it to lay level and elevate it
slightly from the glass. Each session I moved the guitar slightly so that the
tubes did not shine in exactly the same place each time. None of the
surface of the guitar (wood, metal, nor plastic) became hot to the touch,
but the wood did radiate some warmth after each session.

Results:
The first 20-minute session had interesting results. There was very little color
change (yellowing) but it had the effect of fading the underlying white
paint allowing the wood grain to show through more and enhance that
bluish cast that the grain in a white blond has in addition to softening the
white just a bit. The second night was for 1 full hour, which resulted
in a noticeable, although slight color change. With the pickguard removed, a
very subtle
gtan lineh was visible and the color of the exposed areas
became a softer, warmer off-white. The neck also darkened slightly.


The most interesting result occurred when I returned home and
plugged the Tele in to find that the sound had changed. The bridge
pickup had lost the
gice pick in the eardrumh sound but retained all of
its former twanginess. It was a subtle change, a bit warmer and fuller than
before and noticeably more resonant, even unplugged. I first thought
that it might be attributable to the expansion of the wood
from the warming, but it retained its new mellower sound even the
next day when played cold. My hypotheses are

1) the electromagnetic field generated by the tanning bed had
mellowed the pickup magnets, 

2) the intense UV and resulting warmth generated by the lights
had dried the wood and opened the grain thus enhancing resonance, 

3) the transformers in the bed generated high-frequency sound
waves that enhanced the resonance or 

4) a combination of some or all of the above. Unfortunately, I can
ft A/B
the guitar with itself in its before and after condition, but I know that
I
fm not imagining the sound difference. It now sounds nearly identical to
my 18 year old
f52 RI.

The final session (40 minutes) resulted in no sonic or resonance
changes but did darken the finish even more. It
fs current color is a creamy
Vanilla, about the color of a 5-10 year old white blond Tele. Jim Rumson
suggested 2 hours then to let it rest a few days for the chemical reactions to
tke place which is where I
fm at now.

To sum it up, my experimental attempt at aging the finish resulted
in a total aging of the guitar while retaining the like new condition of the
finish (other than the color), metal, and plastic parts. In
gTime Machineh
terms, it
fs now a Closet Classic. My goal was not to relic or cosmetically
age the guitar, only to soften the color of the white blond. That goal
was certainly achieved and more. Thanks, guys for the advice.

====
Jim Rumson

A day in the hot sun would cause heat damage to the guitar...
the tanning salon is safer.

Although I would never have said so, in public, at the time, I also
swear that the E/M field of the tanning bed has a positive effect on
tone, for a reason I cannot explain.

DO NOT OVERDO THE UV, however, or you will start to make the finish very
brittle (before its time). I'm really glad you were brave enough to take
the advice, and I'm genuinely happy you achieved the desired results!

GuitarJonz
I did an aging on my MIM 50s Classic.
Heres what I did. Using Kiwi brown shoe polish, wipe polish on the entire body, wait 2 min., then wipe off before it dries. Do this twice. Obviously, remove the pickguad so you won't get any on there. It works excellent, turning the IMO ugly white blonde into perfect late 50s blonde. Mine came out looking exactly like the '58 Tele on p. 37 of the Tele Book. Others said "oh no, it will wipe off, etc", but it stays on there, and no amount of rubbing with a clean white cloth could remove any of it. Just be sure you want it this way, because it seems to be permament. Of course, maybe paint thinner or something could take it off, but I never tried it, as it looked SO COOL!
original
after the show polish treatment

NickFanis
Well there have been some great coments on the different sound of our favorite axes,so I think I have to give a report on the subtle but important sonic differences of my teles.

Last night I loaded them with fresh 011 GHS pure nickels and plugged them in my 68 JBL loaded twin reverb.I own
78 ash body,roundlam neck,
MIJ 69 Thinline Ri with DIMARZIO Twang Kings and brass saddles and
1962 self made copy alder/ rosewood with intonated brass saddles and Texas Special pups.

1.
the 78:this is the best of the bunch IMHO very twangy,snappy and solid sounding,sustain for days and lots of harmonics.The "classic" tele sound.The pups are a bit microphonic with lots of overdrive but I guess that's the reason the axe sounds so good in the first place.Looks great also in a butterscotsch finish.The neck is simply the best feeling neck I have ever played,huge and very comfy (the axe was bought with jumbo frets that add to the sustain and playability).

2.
the THINLINE:Very airy sounding,a great soloing instrument,it has more pronounced mids and an overall more civilized character.Amazing built quality for the money and the DM pups really add a lot to the whole package.The neck is thiner than the 78 but feels good too (vintage frets on this one).The axe sounds "meatier" with more mids than the 78.

3.
the 62:this is the "overdrive" guitar.The best dirty tele tone ever (I guess Texas Specials love alder and overdrive).More mids than the 78 and less than the thinline,very punchy sounding but it don't twang as much as the other too.Think rock not country.The neck is a bit skiny for my taste with vintage frets and the string spacing is not as comfy as the other two but I got used to it.


All in all I think these babies cover pretty much the whole tele sound spectrum:twang,punch,warmth and great harmonics.

Reviews from magazines
52RI

This model hearkens back to Fender's earliest days when the Telecaster was expected to sound jazzy as well as twangin'. The wiring tells all: The selector's rear position is the front pickup, and the front position is the front pickup with all treble rolled off. This is supposed to give the Tele a dark, arch-top sound. (It sounds very muffled, like Stephen Stills' solo tone on "Wooden Ships.") 
The '52 features an ash body, non-staggered bridge pickup polepieces, three brass saddles, hip dome knobs, slot-head screws (bummer for the guys on the assembly line), and an orangey, nitro-lacquer finish that's designed to look old. The workmanship on the '52 is quite cool: The thick finish is nearly flawless, and the routing and shaping are reasonably clean. The neck pocket could be tighter, though - it doesn't pass our infamous business card test. (GP cards are .010 thick, and we could slip a .014feeler in the gap.) The control cavity is unshielded it wasn't shielded in '52 either), and cloth-covered wire is used everywhere. The wiring and soldering is tidy. 
The '52 reissue's neck has a excellent old Tele feel. Too bad the finish has to be so dang heavy. This guitar's got the tone too. It's spanky bite and fat twang are most authentic sounding, and the front pickup - sans capacitor - sounds good and clear. The rear pickup is not squeal-free. Weight: 7lbs 13 oz. 

Comments: Great Tele tone and vibe. 

Out of five possible stars as follows. 

Playability: **** 
Workmanship: **** 
Materials: **** 
Versatility: **** 
Twang factor: **** 
Bang for $$$: **** 
---------------------

52RI

This Telecaster is essentially a snapshot of the electric guitar as it was the day it was born: simple, elegant, and full of beans. Plugging into a new Fender combo, the guitar roared to life on the bridge pickup setting, it's American Vintage pickup retaining all the bite of the traditional Tele, but blissfully lacking any of that howling screech that can make lesser Tele bridge pickups so annoying. The guitar sounded perfectly twangerific in the clean mode, but Teles do or die in the distortion zone. More often than not, they crumble into a sheer sonic mess, but the '52 proved otherwise: it had all the beef of a 'bucker, without losing any of it's Tele appeal. Effortlessly, I was cranking out ferocious power chords and leads with squeling edge of the pick harmonics. And as befitting the Tele's universal popularity, this guitar is good for everything from country to hard rock, thanks to that ripping pickup. It's a classic plank, to be sure. 
I wish I could say the same kind remarks about the neck pickup, but I found it somewhat underpowered and tonally muted. Although it was bassy enough, the unit was a bit too flat for my taste; I even have reservations about jazz players getting a good tone out of it. As a remedy, however, just go to the middle pickup position and work off the bright edge of the bridge pickup and the fatness of the neck. It's not a perfect solution, but it works. Fortunately, the maple neck plays great and really, few people buy Teles for that front pickup anyway. [Fruther notes Mike Lewis, "This pickup is an exact reproduction of the '52 neck unit. The style of music played back then was different from music today, and the pickup was designed accordingly. Actually, this guitar appeared before the advent of the electric bass, so the neck unit was extremely bassy, for low end comping or whatever. After electric basses arrived, the modern wiring for neck pickups was devised."] 
Like it's ancestors, this '52 reissue is a workhorse that does the Tele business and then some. Reservations about the neck pickup aside, the '52 Telecaster is certainly not just another dumb blonde. 
----------------------

MIJ '69 thinline circa '93


The thinline's semi-hollow mahogany body is a big departure form standard Tele design. Details include a 21-fret, maple on maple neck with wide dot-spacing at the 12th fret, a box tailpiece with a 3-point ssteel bridge and full-round bridge saddles, a mother-of-bowling ball pickguard, Gotoh tuners, a butterfly string tree, flat-top knobs, and standard Tele pickups (the bridge pickup's polepieces are non-staggered). The Thinline is very nicely mad. The neck and fretwork feels excellent, and the clear finish on the natural mahogany body is blemish free and beautiful. Inside the hollow control area we found unshielded pickup wires and a shielded output lead. The soldering is clean. 
The Thinline is a lightweight and very toneful istrument. The rhythm pickup has some squel problems, and it's muddier and quieter than the lead pickup, but it's beefitness is quite cool. The bridge pickup is very bright, but never sounds too thin. Weight: 7lbs 3oz. 

Comments: This one has that magic Tele sound. 


Out of five possible stars as follows. 

Playability: **** 
Workmanship: **** 
Materials: **** 
Versatility: **** 
Twang factor: **** 
Bang for $$$: **** 

Bob McLeod
'50's Classic and an ash '69 Thinline
A Tale of Two Teles: MIM report...


I recieved my two new MIM teles from Larry Miletich at Music One. I and a few of my fellow tele-holics have had a chance to work 'em out and here is a short review:

Number one is a '50's Classic, sunburst finish, all stock except for compensated brass saddles installed by Larry during setup.
The sunburst finish is exceptionally well done on a three piece medium-weight ash body. The big, chunky, huge maple neck is also well done with a lot of attention to detail. You won't be wrapping your thumb around this baby unless your nickname is 'Spider' or maybe 'King Crab'! Very tight fit at the neck pocket. A great looking tele, and, just in case you're curious, build quality IS comparable to '52 ri.
The hardware is top quality and functions well. Now to the good part - can you say TWANG! Great sounding guit with a real tele soul. Plays like a dream, both neck and bridge pups chock full 'o tone. I wouldn't change a thing, sounds just great stock.

Number two is an ash Thinline, also in sunburst. Build quality and finish just as good as the '50's. Very airy and open tone - this baby rips! About a 9.5 on the twang scale. Excellent bass response and sweet, smooth highs. I expect the brass saddles have something to do with that.
Compared to mahogany Thinlines I have owned and played, I would say the ash really has more classic tele tone, in my opinion.

In short, the MIM's are for real. Great teles at a reasonable cost. Now if they would only do a MIM Esquire!

Bob


Katsumi
Fender USA American Standard (1999 model) 
Price : about $650 at SamAsh in New York 
Color : Black 

  I checked about ten guitars when I bought this one. 
 Very distinct trebly sound which anyone can tell it's a Telecaster tone. Especially the center position (bridge + neck pickup) is sooo beautiful! (tears in my eyes!) With this guitar, I can enjoy playing even with no effecters. GREAT! BUT, but! the stock neck PU is "so-so" to me. It's okay and usable but it doesn't sound like a Tele. When I pick the strings hard, then it becomes a little bit twangy. But when I play it with regular picking strength, it sounds more like a Stratcaster. At fast, I thought Tele's neck pickup was always like that and I didn't think there would be better ones. But when I saw a video "PLAYING IN THE STYLE OF THE FENDER TELECASTER GREATS" and heard the sound from Troy Dexter's American Standard neck pickup, I've decided to replace mine. I could copy his bridge and middle sound with my Fender Princeton Chorus amp. But I couldn't reproduce his great neck sound at all. (Does he use stock pup for his neck pu?)

The joint part of the neck and the body is very tight and precise. 

I didn't except the routing cavity of this body was this small (Fig.1). 
(around 1991, since it goes under the pickguard and nobody can see, Fender put a large cavity called "swimming pool" on the body so that a body can fit any kinds of pickup combinations. The Strat Plus for example, was almost like hollow-body. In my opinion, with the swimming pool and laminant body, Fender's quality was much worse than infamous CBS era.) 

Fig.1

 This body has thin laminant on the top and the back. I don't like it even though this guitar stil sounds great. It is just a matter of my "feeling".  I might replace this body in the future.  
 
  Volume and Tone knobs are plastic. That's okay with me since it makes the guitar lighter and still looks like metal parts. 

  Tuners are made by Schaller. A simple rectangle design. (too simple?) 


 Bridge plate are not firmly attached to the body on some guitars.  I noticed some guitars had a little floating space in the rear side, some had space in the front side, and some were firmly attached. Now I think having additional screws on the plate (like Music One, Vintique, etc) is not a bad idea. 

  It is difficult to switch the pickup selector knob once it is in the bridge position since there is too little space between the selector and the volume knob. (I'll change this tip) 

If you want old tele's "fat" tone, you should buy 52RI or MIM Classic.  
If you like Tele's trebly but still twangy tone,  then you will LOVE this guitar. 

Katsumi


Kazuhiro Yano
Hello, My name is Yano. I live in Kagawa-ken in Japan.
My favorite is the Custom Shop made American Classic Telecaster. (Fig1)
It seems this body is three-piece.
Although it's a Custom Shop guitar, I see some flaws. 
For instance:

(1) very thick and not flat poly finish.
(2) neck and middle pickups share one big pickup cavity.
(3) I had to adjust the micro-tilt to straighten the neck.

BUT!! the sound of this guitar is really good!


Fig.2 was originally a Fender Japan custom telecaster. (three tone sunburst) Since I got divorced I have a lot of free time.  : )
So here are what I did:

(1) refinished with nitro.
(2) neck pickup -> DiMarzio PU for LP Delux
(3) contoured cut body
(4) adjusted and reshaped neck
(5) fret dressing
(6) 6-way saddles (GraphTech String Saver)
(7) bridge pickup -> DiMarzio Fast Track
(8) modified controls:
front position : neck + bridge
added mini phase switch for the center position.
(9) there were no room for PU selector, so I changed to LP's toggle switch
yano1.gif (60984 bytes)
(Fig1)
yano2.jpg (39441 bytes)
(Fig2)

This guitar sounds really good! I really mean it! I think this nice sound is delivered from the thin nitro finish, GraphTech's string saver, neck adjustment, and the no-stress saddle height.

By the way, many people adjust each of the saddles along with the neck's radius. But I think each of the saddles should be adjusted depending on each players picking style. That is; your picking hand's radius should be the primary factor when you adjust the saddles' height. Leo invented micro-tilt so that you can adjust the saddle height and still you can keep the strings height by changing necks angle. GREAT!!

Incidentally, I am a Tele fan since I was a junior high school kid. My friends said "I don't understand!", but I was so matured and said to him "You are too young for this."


Kazuhiro Yano


Chipl
I had a one meg pot in my 52RI when I had the stock pickups in it,
but when I had the Fralins put in, I found the 1 meg pot made the pickups
sound too trebly so I went back to the 250, which worked better.

But the 1 meg pot sounded really good with the stock pickups to my ears

Chip Lovitt

‚v‚‚ƒ‚‹‚™
ModelFFender Japan TL-52

I bought it for about 65000 yen 16 years ago.
I don't know what the body material is.  Maybe Ash I think.
I use it when I want the Rolling Stones' sound.
Since it has a lot of wear, it looks like a real vintage now.

Color:
Blonde (whitish one. I didn't like butterscotch at that time)

Modifications:
I wanted fatter tone. So,
potentiometer 250k -> 500k
bridge saddle ->  SCHECTER 6way (I cut my hand with its original bridge!)
pickup (bridge) -> Tom Anderson (same as Keith Rechards)
pickup (neck) -> normal (it already had a great sound)

I can't recommend this stock bridge pickup since it sounds too fat and too muddy
when I turn up the volume of my amp. 

Next Projects:
I think I'll change the pickup and the pot again.
Maybe Voodoo TL50's or Vanzant?
Also, I'll try 52's wiring on this guitar.

yano@52-80TX 
I have FenderJapan TL52-80TXiWhite ash,texas special pups)

Duncan quarter pound -> Vanzant true vintage
pot -> made in Japan (Japanese Pot size was not the same with USA pot!)
switch -> made in USA
condenser ->replaced with a larger size

Van Zant has less power than the original Texas Special and Duncan quarter pound.
It has a clearer tone. I think I've finally found a true tele tone. I also like the bridge pup
since it is not too trebly for me.


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